In a 1999 ford Taurus, 3.0 L engine, not the doh engine, just the regular 3.0 engine, the coolent does have a brownish tint to it. I've had radiator flushes every single year, but i still have no heat. i heard that flushing the heater core is different, so I'd like to know, step by step in how to do this correctly. My thermostat was changed yesterday, I've touched the pipes in the firewall(was told these are the heater core hoses) and one was warm(luke) and the other was warmer(more than luke), but i still have no heat, my heat blows like luke warm to cold, and it takes a long time to get up there. Help please!How do u change flush a heater core?When you flush the system it runs through the heater core if it isn't heating up correctly try putting a thermostat in that runs a little hotter. I had to do this with a vehicle I owned as it wouldn't blow out hot air it was luke warmHow do u change flush a heater core?You can buy a kit from Canadian tire or Auto Zone for about $7.00 and all you do is hook a garden hose on it start the car then turn on the water. Also you should add a winter thermastat. This will allow the antifreeze to warm up more before it gets cooled off in the rad. If this still doesn't work then put a piece of cardboard in front of your rad.How do u change flush a heater core?flush and drain cooling system.
there is a chemical called C.L.R. you can buy it in most any hardware store. buy 2 lengths of heater hose long enough to reach the heater core and come out the hood enough to get a funnel in one of them, run the other into a bucket under the car. pour the CLR into the funnel and let it run through the heater core. follow with distilled water. reconnect heater lines from motor. refill cooling system with proper mixture of antifreeze and distilled water.
this doesnt always work (about 50% of the time) but its easier and cheaper than a heater core replacement. especially in a taurus.How do u change flush a heater core?IF YOU HAD THE DONE ON A REGULAR BASIS THEN THE HEATER CORE WOULD HAVE BEEN FLUSHED OUT AT THE SAME TIME.
IF YOU WANT TO TRY IT YOURSELF JUST REMOVE BOTH HEATER LINES FROM THE HEATER CORE AND FLUSH IT OUT WITH YOUR GARDEN HOSE.How do u change flush a heater core?you have a valve that control the flow for the heater core,some are controlled by a vacuum or cable when you select heater or the temperature, check the vacuum system for leaks,.because when the controls are working fine the water in the heater core should flow freely heating up the core.I hope this help.
Thursday, September 22, 2011
How do I change the batteries in my Honeywell T8602 thermostat?
how do I change the batteries in my Honeywell T8602 thermostat? They don't even tell you how in the owner's manuel (other than that I need 3 AA alkaline batteries). I CANNOT find a battery door to open ANYWHERE! Help!How do I change the batteries in my Honeywell T8602 thermostat?Pull the thermostat up from the bottom and the batteries will be on the underneath side of the thermostat.How do I change the batteries in my Honeywell T8602 thermostat?I don't think thermostats have batteries ???? why do you think you need a battery
Change from 4-wire A/C thermostat to 5-wire thermostat..How?
I want to change out a Payne 4-wire R,G,W,Blue (to Y) to a Totaline P286-11200 programable thermostat which uses 5-wires: Common (blue) to C, 24v (red) to RH, Heat (white) to W2, Fan (green) to G, and AC (yellow) to Y1. Can a jumper be used, if so, where, or do I need to run a new 5-wire cable? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.Change from 4-wire A/C thermostat to 5-wire thermostat..How?I changed over to a 5 wire of Course I have a RHEEM Gas Electric package unit
now mark each wire with the letter of the terminal it came off or out off yes can change them put on my RHEEM inside where the circuit board is there was a blue wire just laying there I took the wire that was not hook to anything and wire nutted it to piece of thermostat wire that was not being used you can add on to the wire if you need to now place the wire in the B terninal and then place The RED in the R or RH terminal white on W Yellow on Y Green on G and then turn your power back on and it should work. I changed mine out myself. If you do not have a b terminal I do not know I tried to put in a carrier thermostat without a B terminal never did get it to work . I tried sorry if I could not helphoping for some advice shampoo for colored hair
now mark each wire with the letter of the terminal it came off or out off yes can change them put on my RHEEM inside where the circuit board is there was a blue wire just laying there I took the wire that was not hook to anything and wire nutted it to piece of thermostat wire that was not being used you can add on to the wire if you need to now place the wire in the B terninal and then place The RED in the R or RH terminal white on W Yellow on Y Green on G and then turn your power back on and it should work. I changed mine out myself. If you do not have a b terminal I do not know I tried to put in a carrier thermostat without a B terminal never did get it to work . I tried sorry if I could not help
Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?
I've got a Cadillac Fleetwood commercial chassis with the FWD 4.5L. Last time I drove it all was fine, but the other owner had it for a couple of months and replaced the radiator hose due to a small leak where the hose had rubbed through.
Now that I've got it back, the temp light comes on after very short trips of 10 miles or less. It was low on coolant when I got it and put 1.5 gallons in it to fill it up initially. I checked the next day, it was again low, and that time I put over 2 gallons in it, started the car, checked it again - and again no coolant to be seen in the radiator. When running at idle, it blows tons of white smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the oil, it's not overfull nor does it appear to be mixed with coolant. My initial thought was the head gasket since I'd been told one one Cadillac engine there was a special procedure for a thermostat change otherwise the gasket could blow. But, as I said it's losing over 2 gallons in less than a minute of running at idle. Also, when the temp light came on I tried to turn the heat all the way up to dissipate some of the heat, but I got nothing out of the vents (probably because there was no coolant to circulate).
Does anyone have any ideas here? I'm wanting to sell the car, and have a buyer waiting - but obviously I can't sell it if the engine is having a major issue. As I said, I haven't had the car in a couple of months so I have no idea how it was treated in that time frame, or what if anything was done to it. Also, the fan temp light occasionally kicks on as well.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?Before replacing the head gaskets be sure to check the intake manifold gaskets. That engine is notorious for bad intake gaskets that give all the symptoms of head gasket failure. Also if it does happen to be the head gaskets that are bad be careful when removing the head bolts because they have a tendency to pull the aluminum block threads out when removing them. You should have a shop perform a cooling system pressure test and a cylinder leak down / compression test to determine what it is that's causing the problem because the more you drive it while overheating the more damage and money your costing yourself. Good luck and hope this helps.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?22 years old and blowing 2 gallons per min out the tail pipe? You have a blown head gasket , big time. or you have a large 7 cyl water pump. 2 gallons is almost a full system. Pull the plugs. That should indicate which bank needs a gasket, Just better off to do both sides.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?yeah i think its your head gasket if the smoke on the tail pipe smells like anifreze its your headgasket
Now that I've got it back, the temp light comes on after very short trips of 10 miles or less. It was low on coolant when I got it and put 1.5 gallons in it to fill it up initially. I checked the next day, it was again low, and that time I put over 2 gallons in it, started the car, checked it again - and again no coolant to be seen in the radiator. When running at idle, it blows tons of white smoke out the tailpipe.
I've checked the oil, it's not overfull nor does it appear to be mixed with coolant. My initial thought was the head gasket since I'd been told one one Cadillac engine there was a special procedure for a thermostat change otherwise the gasket could blow. But, as I said it's losing over 2 gallons in less than a minute of running at idle. Also, when the temp light came on I tried to turn the heat all the way up to dissipate some of the heat, but I got nothing out of the vents (probably because there was no coolant to circulate).
Does anyone have any ideas here? I'm wanting to sell the car, and have a buyer waiting - but obviously I can't sell it if the engine is having a major issue. As I said, I haven't had the car in a couple of months so I have no idea how it was treated in that time frame, or what if anything was done to it. Also, the fan temp light occasionally kicks on as well.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?Before replacing the head gaskets be sure to check the intake manifold gaskets. That engine is notorious for bad intake gaskets that give all the symptoms of head gasket failure. Also if it does happen to be the head gaskets that are bad be careful when removing the head bolts because they have a tendency to pull the aluminum block threads out when removing them. You should have a shop perform a cooling system pressure test and a cylinder leak down / compression test to determine what it is that's causing the problem because the more you drive it while overheating the more damage and money your costing yourself. Good luck and hope this helps.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?22 years old and blowing 2 gallons per min out the tail pipe? You have a blown head gasket , big time. or you have a large 7 cyl water pump. 2 gallons is almost a full system. Pull the plugs. That should indicate which bank needs a gasket, Just better off to do both sides.Problem with 88 Cadillac Fleetwood 4.5L?yeah i think its your head gasket if the smoke on the tail pipe smells like anifreze its your headgasket
How to get a seized screw off a motor?
i badly need to change my thermostats for my water pump the car is still overheating with the new pump and the fluids seems to be circulating normally .. the serpentine tension also seems to be fine as i had to replace that too when the water pump went out.. the bolts will not budge a inch and ive tried about everything i can think of short of breaking the screws off.. even if i broke them off i doubt it will turn .. any ideas on how i can get theses 2 screws off so i can get my thermostat changed?How to get a seized screw off a motor?I can tell you what we do with frozen bolts on tower hardware...
We (I) use a big punch with a flat face, place that against the head of the bolt, then using a 3 to 5 pound sledge, give is verrrry hard wack.
this usually breaks the rust or corrosion that binds the screw threads.How to get a seized screw off a motor?did you try soaking them with pb blaster? spray them down good and tap on the bolts to loosen the rust on them. if the anti-freeze is circulating good then it,s not the thermostat. if i were you i would flush out the whole cooling system especially the radiator and heater core and have the radiator cap checked. also you could have a radiator hose that,s calasping with you while your driving.How to get a seized screw off a motor?This is a very common problem. The bolts holding the thermostat housing very often rust in place. Be careful not to use a breaker bar or you'll torque the bolt heads right off.
The most common way to break the rust is to heat the bolts with an acetylene torch until very hot. After that perhaps a little WD40 and the bolts will come right out. If not, then you didn't heat the bolts hot enough.How to get a seized screw off a motor?Mostly everyone is right on with the problem at hand.
If you should twist off a bolt, then you have to drill out the existing bolt and re-tap it for a new bolt.
Sometimes an easy out will work if the bolt is twisted off, you can spray liquid wrench on it and drill a little hole in it and then use the easy out.How to get a seized screw off a motor?Yes,Bob B is right on target with his idea of rapping on the head to shock the corrosion loose.I might add that the steel bolt inside an aluminum casting is a recipe for disaster. Maybe some heat applied to the perimeter will prevent the aluminum threads from stripping out.How to get a seized screw off a motor?take some wd -40 and spray it at point blank range try to get the stiff to penetrate the threads. let it sit for 24 hours then get a cheater bar the longer the better{more torque} and pop them off. it should work. it always has for me.How to get a seized screw off a motor?if the water is still circulating properly then it cant be the thermostat causing overheating.How to get a seized screw off a motor?are you sure there is no air in the radiator ? That will cause overheatingHow to get a seized screw off a motor?DONT DO THE SLEDGE HAMMER THING,YOU WILL CRACK THE HOUSING! use wd-40
We (I) use a big punch with a flat face, place that against the head of the bolt, then using a 3 to 5 pound sledge, give is verrrry hard wack.
this usually breaks the rust or corrosion that binds the screw threads.How to get a seized screw off a motor?did you try soaking them with pb blaster? spray them down good and tap on the bolts to loosen the rust on them. if the anti-freeze is circulating good then it,s not the thermostat. if i were you i would flush out the whole cooling system especially the radiator and heater core and have the radiator cap checked. also you could have a radiator hose that,s calasping with you while your driving.How to get a seized screw off a motor?This is a very common problem. The bolts holding the thermostat housing very often rust in place. Be careful not to use a breaker bar or you'll torque the bolt heads right off.
The most common way to break the rust is to heat the bolts with an acetylene torch until very hot. After that perhaps a little WD40 and the bolts will come right out. If not, then you didn't heat the bolts hot enough.How to get a seized screw off a motor?Mostly everyone is right on with the problem at hand.
If you should twist off a bolt, then you have to drill out the existing bolt and re-tap it for a new bolt.
Sometimes an easy out will work if the bolt is twisted off, you can spray liquid wrench on it and drill a little hole in it and then use the easy out.How to get a seized screw off a motor?Yes,Bob B is right on target with his idea of rapping on the head to shock the corrosion loose.I might add that the steel bolt inside an aluminum casting is a recipe for disaster. Maybe some heat applied to the perimeter will prevent the aluminum threads from stripping out.How to get a seized screw off a motor?take some wd -40 and spray it at point blank range try to get the stiff to penetrate the threads. let it sit for 24 hours then get a cheater bar the longer the better{more torque} and pop them off. it should work. it always has for me.How to get a seized screw off a motor?if the water is still circulating properly then it cant be the thermostat causing overheating.How to get a seized screw off a motor?are you sure there is no air in the radiator ? That will cause overheatingHow to get a seized screw off a motor?DONT DO THE SLEDGE HAMMER THING,YOU WILL CRACK THE HOUSING! use wd-40
What is wrong with my Ac unit?
Ok I just had the thermostat changed a couple of months ago because the air was not coming out cool. It was working for a while. And now the house gets to 80 degrees by the evening. The air coming from the vents is cool the man came out checked it and said he cant find anything wrong. He did clean it and everything. I beleive it is the house. Though I never heared of a house built and not being able to keep the cool air in. We just bought this house in dec so now that tjhe temp is 94 degrees outside we can se how the house handles it. What are my options what can I do to keep the house cool. Can it be the thermostat again? I have it at 69 by the time it is 4 in the afternoon it is 80. But in the middle of the night it goes to 70 and then the same thing the next day. I have blinds on all my windows. OI do have an arch window I cant find a cover for. But I use a blanket. Who would I call if it is a home problem and not an ac problem.
PS I did change the filter and it has been cleaned out and the tubes are not frozen.What is wrong with my Ac unit?id guess the unit is a lil small.do you have kids going in and out constantly?that makes a big difference. my old house had no shade after my shade tree fell. i had the same problem,although i had 2 window ac units, in calif. sun,the heat would be almost unbearable if the kids were home. if they werent it would get to like 64 on high.you might wanna make sure your ducting is insulated and you have good ventilation in your attic.sometimes the ducting will go to a manifold that isnt insulated.that can be a problem,and airflow is key with ac.also if your thermostat is in a cool location it may do that, take a temp reading at the thermostat and compare it to room temp.if its way different, get a fan to circulate room temp to the thermostat.What is wrong with my Ac unit?The thermostat only controls the on and off of the system not the temperature of the air coming out.
The man you had come out did not properly diagnose the problem so you should find someone more qualified.
The air temperature coming from the registers should be 15 - 20 degrees F cooler than the room temperature.What is wrong with my Ac unit?How many tons is it? each ton (approx 12,000 btu's) should do approx. 400cubic feet. It sounds like it may be too small. If not too small, take the temp coming out of the unit. It should be 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the air inside the house. Sounds like it can't keep up with the demand though.
PS I did change the filter and it has been cleaned out and the tubes are not frozen.What is wrong with my Ac unit?id guess the unit is a lil small.do you have kids going in and out constantly?that makes a big difference. my old house had no shade after my shade tree fell. i had the same problem,although i had 2 window ac units, in calif. sun,the heat would be almost unbearable if the kids were home. if they werent it would get to like 64 on high.you might wanna make sure your ducting is insulated and you have good ventilation in your attic.sometimes the ducting will go to a manifold that isnt insulated.that can be a problem,and airflow is key with ac.also if your thermostat is in a cool location it may do that, take a temp reading at the thermostat and compare it to room temp.if its way different, get a fan to circulate room temp to the thermostat.What is wrong with my Ac unit?The thermostat only controls the on and off of the system not the temperature of the air coming out.
The man you had come out did not properly diagnose the problem so you should find someone more qualified.
The air temperature coming from the registers should be 15 - 20 degrees F cooler than the room temperature.What is wrong with my Ac unit?How many tons is it? each ton (approx 12,000 btu's) should do approx. 400cubic feet. It sounds like it may be too small. If not too small, take the temp coming out of the unit. It should be 15 to 20 degrees cooler than the air inside the house. Sounds like it can't keep up with the demand though.
I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?
I have changed my thermostats,and my elements. I have checked that I am getting power.I had to use a home line meter,and it did not show how much power I am getting,but it does show power in my lines.Any help?I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?You say you've changed your %26quot;thermostats.%26quot; Are you talking about the thermopilot valve? That's the main valve on the water heater where the wires connect. By the way, you say you've checked %26quot;power,%26quot; so I'm assuming this is an electric water heater.
First, is it 220 volts or 110? Most are 220V. You need to be sure that BOTH legs of the 220 are hot (220 has two 110V legs). If one is not, you've got to find out why not.
Another thing to be sure of (and I've seen it happen with certain types of breakers in electrical panels) is to be sure that you don't have both of the 110V legs of 220V connected to the same leg in the panel. Your panel will have two hot legs (110V each when checked to neutral, and 220V when checked between the two hots). The breaker, if it's 220V, will have two wires. That breaker needs to be connected to both legs. Some space-saving breakers will have two 110V connections, but both on the same leg.
Not much room here to say more, not knowing specifically what you're facing, or how much you know. But checking the incoming voltage would be the first step.I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?Use an amp probe to see if your pulling any current. If your breaker is not tripped and your heater elements are getting proper voltage and are pulling current then I would check to see if the tube inside the hot water tank is not burned in half and or has a hole in it. Remember your hot water comes from the bottom of your tank and cold water comes in from the top.
mikeI can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?You need to get a voltage meter. Sounds like you are not getting the proper voltage.I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?You must have the proper supply voltage in order for your heater to work. You need a meter to read that voltage. Any other device will only tell you that''some'' voltage is present. If everything is connected properly, I suspect a low voltage may be your problem.I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?LSF is probably the closest answer to your problem,
you need a different110 leg to each side of the both heating elements, the thermostats break one side of the element,
First, is it 220 volts or 110? Most are 220V. You need to be sure that BOTH legs of the 220 are hot (220 has two 110V legs). If one is not, you've got to find out why not.
Another thing to be sure of (and I've seen it happen with certain types of breakers in electrical panels) is to be sure that you don't have both of the 110V legs of 220V connected to the same leg in the panel. Your panel will have two hot legs (110V each when checked to neutral, and 220V when checked between the two hots). The breaker, if it's 220V, will have two wires. That breaker needs to be connected to both legs. Some space-saving breakers will have two 110V connections, but both on the same leg.
Not much room here to say more, not knowing specifically what you're facing, or how much you know. But checking the incoming voltage would be the first step.I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?Use an amp probe to see if your pulling any current. If your breaker is not tripped and your heater elements are getting proper voltage and are pulling current then I would check to see if the tube inside the hot water tank is not burned in half and or has a hole in it. Remember your hot water comes from the bottom of your tank and cold water comes in from the top.
mikeI can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?You need to get a voltage meter. Sounds like you are not getting the proper voltage.I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?You must have the proper supply voltage in order for your heater to work. You need a meter to read that voltage. Any other device will only tell you that''some'' voltage is present. If everything is connected properly, I suspect a low voltage may be your problem.I can not get my water heater working.I have changed most of it already.?LSF is probably the closest answer to your problem,
you need a different110 leg to each side of the both heating elements, the thermostats break one side of the element,
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